Day 3: 23/08/2009

Sunday morning was a day of recovery. I never thought I’d actually be able to walk again after the pain of the previous night. While a group had taken off early to the Holocaust Museum, Jamie and I took our time and decided to trek our own path today.

After getting directions from a veteran teacher, Jamie and I hopped on our first tram and headed to the Castle District. Both of us were nervous, as we weren’t even sure we were going to the right way. Thanks to my stellar skills at directions (don’t forget our time in Rome, Morgan!), we made it off at the right stop. Both Jamie and I were a little disturbed to see an elderly man on the side of the tram with a large chunk taken out of a nose. He must’ve taken a bad spill, and it must’ve hurt!

Parliament from the Castle District

We hopped off the tram and headed up towards what I hoped to be the right street to the Castle District. We’d heard about the bus that avoids the steep walk, but weren’t sure where to catch it, so up we went. I thought yesterday was going to be hard enough to recover from, but like maple syrup on pancakes, I just kept piling on the pain. Fortunately, this was pile of pain was worth it.

The Castle District is pretty big, complete with houses, a church, and even the President’s Office! Jamie was able to snag a picture, but we were both wary of the armed guards at the door. As we walked around the castle, I realized that this was the first time I had seen tourists in the city, and there were plenty! At this point, I know we are both tourists too, but I’d like to think that one of these days we’ll be accepted as residents!

After wearing ourselves out at the castle, we jetted back to the hostel and off to get ready for dinner. Tonight was the first night of orientation, and we all got together for a dinner by the Duna (the Danube). The night was a crisp, warm night and we were ready to storm the town! We ate at Duna Curso, which is right next to te river in Pest. I had the beefsteak dunacurso WITH goose liver. That’s right, little Jakey ate goose liver. What is going on here? A new country, a new leaf — that’s what!

Jamie's dinner...a bunch of meat!

My dinner...beefsteak and goose liver!

Jamie and I pre-dinner...and pre-vagina bar!

After enjoying dinner, dessert, and even a cappucino, several of the teachers headed out in search of a bar. As we crossed to Buda, one of the teachers mentioned a bar they nicknamed “the vagina bar.” Why? Because on the wall were pictures of S&M and, of course vaginas. Even so, the beer was cheap and the company loud, so we had a great time. Seriously, can’t beat a beer for 295 forints (about $1.50).

The Castle District (?) at sunset

After all of the frolicking, we headed back to the hostel and watched Super Troopers with fellow teachers Levi and Dwana before our first day of the real orientation — sitting in a hot classroom for 6+ hours, learning all about the Hungarian culture, some language, and even how to make a phone call!

The Statue in all her glory

Day 2: 22/08/2009

Jamie and I got a late start, as expected, but without any pressing schedule, it didn’t really matter. We decided to walk across the Freedom Bridge to Pest and see what we could find. As we were about to seek out Vaci Ut, we noticed a bunch of people walking into a dismal building across the street. As we entered, we were enveloped by a marketplace of mysterious wonders.

Meats and cheeses and fruits and vegetables and souvenirs and a bunch of locals shopping! If only we knew what to order! As we perused the booths, we marveled at what we may have to decipher so we know what we we’ll be eating. We made our way upstairs and (finally) found some Hungarian food to eat! As we picked  a place, Jamie heard somebody calling my name.

Jeremy and me...CETP represent!

Of course, she jumped as I meandered unknowingly. Turns out it was Jeremy and Sean, two of our CETP buddies, enjoying some sausage and goulash. Jamie and I grabbed some langos smothered with cheese and sour cream, as well as a beer, and chowed down. Words can’t describe the party that my mouth was having. Sorry Iby, but this langos was awesome!

Vaci Utca -- Alley of Tourists

The view from Gellert Hill

After stuffing ourselves with food, the four us walked out and down Vaci Ut, admiring the shops, the restaurants, the two H&Ms, and the tourists. Despite the horrendously sticky heat, we decided to trek across the chain bridge and make our way up Gellert Hill. With every set of stairs, my shirt became closer and closer to being as wet as the Danube. As my water bottle slowly emptied faster than a gas tank, I began to wish I never started the ascent up.

And then we saw her. The statue of a woman holding a leaf. A leaf? Really? We climbed all that way to see a leaf? Well, yeah, but it was worth it. As a slight breeze cooled us off, we admired the expanding view of our new city.

After taking some side streets back to the hostel, we napped before heading out to Vaci Utca for dinner. Despite all of the touristy choices, we picked one a block down, which turned out to be not too shabby. I had the traditional paprikas csirke (chicken paprika) with a side of some traditional cheesy bread. Both were delicious and cost about 2000 Ft (10 dollars). While dinner was a delight, it was nothing compared to the rest of our evening!

Csirke paprikas...first Hungarian meal!

One of our hill-climbing buddies, Sean, knew of a bar that was in Pest. Thinking it would be a nice Saturday walk, we all followed along. Little did we know that we were taking on a wild Hungarian goose chase down Andrassy Ut. As my legs continued to chafe, burn, and itch, I straddled along in search of the golden Szimpla bar. “Just a little further,” he said. Several times. Wait…we found it!

As our eyes gaze at the Szimpla sign with exhaustion, waiting to enjoy a sor (beer), Sean informs us that this is not the bar we are looking for. After getting directions from the bartender, we circle the block once more. After a poor attempt at buying a bottle of wine with no cork screwand a dash into a smoky dive bar’s dismal bathroom by the ladies of the group, we make our way back to the Szimpla we first found to enjoy a refreshing drink.

My luck, I trip up the stairs, only to be laughed at by a group of Hungarians pointing at the “Amerikai.” What better way to wash any humiliation away than a shot of unicum?After all the fun we were having, we decide it’s time to head back. As I ask the bartender for directions, she laughs. I must be a really funny guy here — at least somebody appreciates my jokes! Actually, she laughed because it was a 10 km walk back to the hostel. What does that mean? That Sean made us walk more than 10 km only to not find the bar he wanted! To top it off, it started to rain. The bartender called for a taxi, and informed us it would be about 3,000 – 5,000 Forints, or roughly 15 to 25 dollars.

Nothing like a shot of unicum to end the night!

Upon reaching the hostel,  the meter read 1,600 Ft, or $7 dollars. Now that’s a taxi! For anyone coming, be warned — some taxi companies are reputable, while others will take you for all you’re worth! Despite the trouble and the pain, we all had a great time during our second night in our new home. As they say, with a spoonful of sugar let the medicine go down, but as I say, with a shotful of unicum, let the night never end.

View From the Hostel

Well, I had my first blog entry ready to go before I made it to New York, but with a short layover and no wi-fi, I could not post it. So here goes a new one! Welcome everyone to this blog, my blog! This blog will follow the adventures I have with Jamie as we teach our way through a new country.  Since I haven’t had much internet access, I’ll slowly recap the first several days, starting with the first.

Day 1: 8/20/2009 (flight) – 8/21/2009

Going to bed at 2:30 am after my last night in the hot tub in El Sobrante didn’t hit me until waking up a mere three hours later to leave. I had packed and re-packed, and even added a bag, but I still didn’t believe that I was actually leaving. As we got closer to the airport, I thought mom was going to flood the car with tears, but nobody drowned.

Checking in was a breeze, at least until I went through the baggage check. A mysterious object was picked up in the X-ray, and my bag was torn apart nicely. The only object they could find was my computer lock, but that wasn’t the problem. After the second go-around, a pocket that I didn’t even know was on the bag was opened, only to find a pocket knife. Of all the prohibited objects, I had a knife! Sadly, it was thrown away (sorry, Dad!). After that, it was time to take off.

The flight to New York was a breeze, except that movies were $6 each! Despite some delays, we got some pizza before hopping on the next plane. This is really where reality started to set in. People around us were all talking a foreign language. The flight attendant messages were said in English and Hungarian. We were really on our way to another freaking country! As Jamie and I dozed in and out of sleep, watched 17 Again and Star Trek, we slowly knew that the next step was onto some fertile, Magyar soil.

We got off the plane,  grabbed our bags (which all came at once…bizarre), and headed out the doors as we declared nothing. We met Mary Rose and Hajni, the two directors of the Central European Teaching Program, and were directed to a taxi to take to the hostel. The taxi driver was very friendly, and pointed out some of the buildings and bridges.

Upon arriving at the hostel, Jamie and I met some returning students, got our cell phones and room arrangements, and…fell asleep! It was hot, humid, and uncomfortable, but we managed to crash for a few hours. Feeling rejuvenated, we decided to go for a walk. We stopped off at a grocery store for our first Hungarian rendevous. Without uttering a word, we paid 100 forints for a large bottle, which was about 50 cents. After leaving, we kept walking down a street near a restaurant called Hemingway’s. Cool little park with a fountain, dogs, and Hungarians, oh my!

Liberty Bridge; Photo by Jamie Stubblefield

Gellert Hill; Photo by Jamie Stubblefield

Rather than taking another nap, Jamie and I decided we should at least step foot on the Pest side to say we’ve been to Buda AND Pest. The bridge we crossed is called the Liberty Bridge, and it is located right in front of Gellert Hill.

After heading back to the hostel, we went out with a group to a gyro place for dinner. First real meal, and it was a delicious mess. After the meal, the group was heading out to a bar, and despite the jet lag, Jamie and I thought we’d persist. We made our way back to the hostel to drop something off and when we returned…we couldn’t find them. So we bought more water, even threw in a Jo Estet (good evening), and hit the sack.

Recap of Day 2 coming soon…