Adventures in the Country of Hungary

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Archive for September, 2009

Let the games begin!

Posted by Jake Hidas on 2009/09/26

A view of the Kiraly from his hotel..er...castle.

A view of the Kiraly from his hotel..er...castle.

Upon closer look at my last blog entry, I promised reflections on my second week, and instead left you in suspense. Here I am, ready to talk about the third week, but I guess I have a lot more ground to cover than I thought. Let’s begin!

After my first week of shadowing teachers in a crash course of Teaching Kids 101, I was thrown to the (little) lions! The first class I officially taught was a 2nd grade class, and it actually went okay! Throughout the week, I shadowed maybe once or twice more before graduating to full-time teacher. The 2nd graders were mostly in review mode, so it was fun but monotonous. It’s pretty much a bunch of games, coloring, and songs — I think I can handle that, eh? I like that I can pretty much a big kid and have a fun time. The only catch is they actually have to learn something at some point, and I have to discipline if needed (which may be required sooner than later).

As the week went on, I started to recognize faces and pronounce names (somewhat). However, it’s going to take me a while. No Zoltans or Attilas, either! There are some students who really know their English, and a lot that don’t, so it’s going to be a fun and busy year for me! Jamie’s school experience so far has been less than stellar, having to deal with rowdy students and no classrooms to teach in!

By the end of the week, the novel feeling of having well-behaved classes started to wear off as they started to get used to me and realized that — gasp — they have to learn from me! As the week ended, Jamie and I looked forward to having some familiar faces in town. That’s right, the kiraly (king) himself, Alex, along with the ever-awesome Suzanne, landed on Friday to party hard with us youngsters throughout the weekend.

After meeting Alex and Suzanne at their hotel, we walked down to find some food. Alex, guide book in hand, took us to Raday Utca. The only way Raday Utca can be described is the restaurant alley for locals, versus Vaci Utca being tourist central. We ate at one of the most famous restaurants in the city (I think), which wasn’t too bad. I had piglet, which was a little fattier than I would prefer, but tasty nonetheless.

Fogsor - Teeth Bar!After dinner, we met with some other CETP teachers at a bar called Fogsor (Teeth Beer), which was actually pretty cool. If you recall from a previous post, we had meandered in search of Szimpla Kert, and walked by a really cool bar — Fogsor was that bar! Set in the middle of an abandoned apartment complex, DJ beats filled the air, along with smoke, as youthful Hungarians chattered away. We had a good time there for a while, but decided to call a cab and call it a night, as we had a big day coming up!

After starting our day with some langos at a market near Alex and Suzanne’s hotel, we headed to the castle to enjoy the views, the awesome weather, and best of all, the Wine Festival. While we were only there for one day, the festival actually started on Wednesday, and continued until Sunday. We enjoyed glass after glass of Hungarian Tokaji, Egri Bikaver (Bull’s Blood)! We also went into the National Budapest Museum, which captured the history of the city. While a lot of it was in Hungarian, it was very cool to see original Coats of Arms, old boots, and a bunch of other artifacts from the city’s rich history.

Jamie and Suzanne

Jamie and Suzanne and their wine glasses!

Two Hidas' in all their Hungarian pride!

Two Hidas' in all their Hungarian pride!

Who's had more wine so far?

Who's had more wine so far?

Now who's had more wine?!

Now who's had more wine?!

I'd say the guy with the baby bottle!

I'd say the guy with the baby bottle!

One thing that makes life difficult when traveling overseas is not having any means of contact. Jamie and I were doing a lot of guesswork to try and meet with Alex and Suzanne sans cell phone. They enjoyed Margitsziget for the day on bikes, us on foot, but we ended up meeting for dinner at an excellent restaurant. Who knew that a place right across from Szent Istvan’s Bazilika could be affordable, delicious, and awesome? Some local at the bike rental place, that’s who!

Jamie and I had school Monday, so we called it a night, but met up with them after school to hit one of the local favorites: the Szechenyi Baths. Located in the heart of Varosliget (City Park) is this bath house, complete with 15 baths for your enjoyment. Massage pools, hot pools, ice cold baths, saunas, and an amazing atmosphere make this place unforgettable. It’s a shame we didn’t come sooner, and we look forward to enjoying the warm water during the winter, us relaxing and surrounded by snow! We ate dinner at Bagolyvar, which was good, but not as good as our first visit. Our time with Alex and Suzanne had been a blast, but they were sadly leaving the following day.

Our goodbyes were short and sweet, with them giving us towels stolen from the hotel, and us rushing to the immigration office to become legalized residents, but I’m glad to have gotten to spend time with them here. The best part certainly was Alex being called out for his Hungarian. Example:

Are you a student here?Setting: Wine Festival

Scenario: Alex talking to one of the vendors

Alex: (Something in Hungarian like “How’s it going?”).

Vendor: (In English) Where you from?

Alex: San Francisco.

Vendor: So are you here studying Hungarian?

Alex: WHAT?! (Rants about Hungarian roots in the mother tongue).

The best part of this is that this was not the only time Alex was called out for his Hungarian. Sorry, Skunky, but you just got schooled. Speaking of school, this was my third week, and it was moving fast! The students were slowly moving onto new material, from school supplies to fruits for the 1st graders and The Very Hungry Caterpillar for 2nd grade. It wasn’t horrible, but it wasn’t awesome either. The 2nd graders, already familiar with the story, had to be enticed into hearing it all over again. Another native teacher helped me with material by preparing laminated fruits from the story, which really saved me! For the most part, the kids enjoyed it. 1st graders were growing tired of school supplies quickly, so starting fruits was a fresh change — for them and for me!

Real birds eat...other birds? (Margitsziget zoo)

Real birds eat...other birds? (Margitsziget zoo)

The weekend couldn’t come sooner, as it was my birthday! Some CETP teachers came from other towns for the weekend, so we had some good times, good meals, and good drinks. On Friday, we went out for dinner followed by some bar (which one — good question!). On Saturday, we decided to go to Margitsziget for a walk. The island is located in the center of the Danube, complete with a singing fountain, trees, flavored cotton candy, and remnants of an old church and castle. It’s a nice change of pace from the city located within the city. Following our walk, we met with the other teachers to check out the Terror House.

It may sound scary by name, but it’s history is much more frightening than some Halloween haunted house. Both the Nazis and Communists used this building to torture thousands of people. The building, complete with an underground prison, is a very intense experience, and there were definitely moments that gave me the chills. There was a lot of information about the 1956 revolution, which really hit home as that’s when my Dad, Grandma, and Grandfather left Hungary for America. After exiting the museum, we encountered a “Save the World” festival on Andrassy Ut. It’s amazing how such a main street can be closed seemingly every weekend for unknown events. This one included a giant robot, a bed that you sleep in standing up, and the most famous singer in all of Hungary. As we trekked up the street, we found even more fun with  the celebration of the 125th anniversary of the Opera House. We came just in time, as balloons with messages attached were released into the air! As the fat lady hit the stage, we left for dinner (Videos soon…promise!).

Jeremy and I having one of the many birthday palinkas!

We decided to eat at an up-and-coming restaurant called Menza. We were given a two-hour slot to eat, as there were reservations at our table at 2100 hours, but we had a great dinner there. The prices were reasonable but the food was delicious. Afterwards, we hit up Pub Morrisons for some karaoke, dancing, and more drinks. Beer, palinka, unicum, and absinthe — now that’s a concoction! The night ended on some rooftop bar, which was cool, but at 0230, Jamie and I were ready to call it quits. Happy birthday to me!

On Sunday, my actual birthday, Jamie and I decided to lay low and spend some time shopping at Tesco. Tesco is the Wal-Mart equivalent of Europe (and maybe other parts of the world?). It is huge, and it is Hungarian! However, we have been fortunate enough to find the following:

  1. Peanut butter
  2. tortillas
  3. tortilla chips
  4. salsa
  5. Taco seasoning
  6. To be continued…

It’s nice to enjoy comforts from home, and if you readers out there have any comforts you’d like to share, please send them our way! Too exhausted to go out anymore, Jamie and I made some dinner and relaxed. I had a delicious pastry for dessert, complete with a match (Jamie’s search for candles turned out to be a challenge, even in the stores with candles in the window display!). However, it was a great way to cap off an excellent birthday weekend.

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And to think I thought I was done with school!

Posted by Jake Hidas on 2009/09/14

Hungarian Flag at Hosok Tere (Heroes' Square (Photo by Jamie Stubblefield)

Hungarian Flag at Hosok Tere (Heroes' Square - Photo by Jamie Stubblefield)

As I reflect upon both the first and second weeks of school (this blog’s been delayed somewhat — it’s a busy time, okay?!), I have realized that my experience hasn’t been that bad at all, especially compared to Jamie’s, but we’ll get into that later. I am teaching at Városligeti Magyar – Angol Két Tanítási Nyelvű Általános, or Varosligeti Bilingual Primary School. It’s located at the corner of City Park. On my way to school this morning, I realized that the bus gives me a perfect view of Hero’s Square in the distance. The bus picks me up a short distance away from our apartment, and takes about 10-20 minutes to get to school, depending on traffic.

August 30th was a Teacher’s Meeting, which I attended for about 5 minutes, where I introduced myself before one of the other native English speakers gave me a tour of the school. The school has five floors, but my classes are mainly on the first, second, and third floors. There are classrooms that are designated for English classes, and I have to take whatever students I am working with to that classroom. It can be a handful leading 1st graders up and down three floors, but so far, so good.

The following day was the first day of school. I put on the nice suit my Dad bought me, which happens to be my very first suit, and made my way to school. Schools in Hungary always open the year with an opening ceremony. This consisted of children singing, doing skits, and the Principal welcoming everyone to the new year. After the ceremony, I was given more information about papers I need to fill out, as well as introduced to the 1st and 2nd grade classes. They all were very excited to meet me — let’s hope that lasts!

As I entered the Teacher’s Room nervously, I was introduced to several other teachers. Everyone is very nice, friendly, and helpful! It’s so funny actually going into a Teacher’s Room as a teacher! For the first several days, I was even intimidated to open the door! However, over the last few weeks, I’ve gotten used to it. I have a desk with my name tag, and a drawer to put some stuff in (although the last teacher, Hanna, left me a bunch of helpful materials — thanks!).

During the first week, I shadowed the other teachers. They gave me helpful advice, worried looks when I told them this was my first time teaching young children, but overall confidence that I would be fine. Each class is so different, as to be expected, but it’s really fun to see most of the students enjoy learning English. I acted along, sang, and even played games with the kids, slowly coming out of my shy, little shell. I was excited to have Friday arrive, as I was tired already!

The weekend turned out to somewhat quiet, but somewhat fun, too! On Friday, I went down to a mall to get our Internet modem. It took forever to get it, but Jamie and I could now avoid fast food joints and instead get wi-fi in our apartment. After spending several more hours setting up the modem and the router, Jamie and I were ready to rock and roll for the night…and we stayed in. Jamie wasn’t feeling well, but it worked out for the better as the night was full of rain, thunder, and lightning. Quite a drastic change from the warm weather we had all week long! We decided to break in the Internet by catching up on True Blood! One episode left in the season!

Budapest_September 2009 036Budapest_September 2009 034

Photo by Jamie Stubblefield

On Saturday, we were on a quest to find a hair dryer for Jamie. We made our way to a cafe called Muvesz, which is one of the well-known cafes in Pest. Despite the sign saying 0900 – whatever (we were there at 0930), the doors were locked. As we look around for another nearby cafe, we notice Andrassy Ut, one of the main streets here, is lined with fences. We call a friend to find out what’s up, and are informed that it’s the Gay Pride Parade. Jamie got excited…until she was informed of the anti-gay sentiment in Budapest. Saddened, we make our way to the West End Mall to get a hair dryer. Media Markt has everything electronic that you would ever need, and Jamie found a hair dryer that ended up working in our apartment (phew!).

After leaving the mall with plans to meet some friends, we found ourselves shut out from the tram to Oktogon. Puzzled, we decided to waltz down the street to the underground home to drop off our stuff. What’s this? Fences along the street? Police in riot gear? No way home!? Oh, right — the Gay Pride Parade! What is always a happy festivity back home in San Francisco turns out to be a fiasco in this city. Last year, numerous people were hurt, and so this year’s police count was up. We decided to wait and see the parade, hoping it wouldn’t be too long. We met a nice Italian living in Hungary and an older couple from England (the wife originally from Austria, the husband from Hungary).

After two hours of standing at a fence, looking at another fence, about 50 or more yards from the parade route, the parade passed by. It lasted literally 2 1/2 minutes, with one float, and maybe two songs playing. However, all around us were neo-nazis screaming anti-gay slurs in Hungarian. What surprised us the most was that many of the Hungarians in the crowd were also shouting horrible things. Thus far, this has been the worst part of Budapest. We were all surprised at how silly something so hateful is, and truly hope things change for the better sooner rather than later. We enjoyed the rest of the day with other teachers by getting some pizza, then hanging out at a housewarming party, but called it a night early to avoid taking a taxi home. We really need to find a night bus!

Movie theater recognizing Gay Pride (Photo by Jamie Stubblefield)

Movie theater recognizing Gay Pride (Photo by Jamie Stubblefield)

To end our weekend, we saw Inglorious Basterds on Sunday with fellow CETP-ers Betsy and Theo. It was playing at the West End Mall, and in English! However, we were warned that it is not all English. And what a warning that was! While the subtitles are in Hungarian, about 1/2 the movie is in German and French. Where English subtitles would’ve filled the screen, we were stuck with Hungarian. I don’t know which of the three languages was harder to follow. Overall, I would say the movie is worth seeing, but do so in a fully-English theater if you lack other language skills like us.

Week two consists of me actually teaching, and it’s nice to say that I survived…at least for now.

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Moving in and starting anew

Posted by Jake Hidas on 2009/09/07

IMG_0192

The results are in, and we are still in Budapest…or so we think. From the hostel, we were whisked away to our new home..er…apartment in Zuglo (XIV district) at Rakosszeg Park. Although we knew we were close to Varosliget (City Park), as the taxi drove down Ungvar Ut, our new main drag, we thought we had gone to a whole new city or country! Jamie and I were both alarmed by the trash that was thrown along the streets, but we stayed calm, hoping that we were going to be in one of the nicer areas of the city, as promised.

I'll take door number one!

I'll take door number one!

Upon arriving at our apartment, we both felt a sense of bewilderment; of “Oh, this is it,” and, “This is it! Really?” As I am writing this post in hindsight, I have to say that the apartment has really grown on us. However, it was not exactly love at first sight. I’ll be uploading a video tour of the apartment soon, but in the meantime, you’ll have to use your imagination to determine what it looks like inside. Is it the Communist-style we had expected, or glamorous and ritzy — or maybe both? Hmm…

I had stupidly left one of my bags at the hostel, so upon dropping our stuff off, we tried out our new local transit system to get back to Buda. There are two buses that run in front of our apartment, the 74 and 74A. We took the 74A, which takes us to the last stop on the M1 Metro line (yellow), and made our way to the hostel. The 74 line goes further into the city, along with dropping me off at my school. When we got to the hostel, Jamie and I both shared our dismay with Hajni and Mary, but they assured us that it was a nice area, and things really will get better. So far, it’s been a mix of both, especially with Jamie’s adventures thus far, but I digress.

Hajni kindly offered us a ride back to our apartment so I wouldn’t have to lug my bag via bus or pay for a taxi. After stepping inside the apartment, we walked around the corner to our local mini-grocery store to scramble up some groceries. The prices here are more than what we’d find downtown or at other stores, but it is quite convenient. After putting groceries away, we decided to once again go out and find some food. Just our luck, we found a Mexican restaurant!

Now, Mexican is one of the staples Jamie and I are going to miss the most. It hasn’t hit us quite yet, but it will. Finding Arriba, which I read about in a tour book, was a nice surprise, and fortunately for us, it hit the spot! If you can avoid the pollo and go with the carne asada or carnitas, you’ll probably be in good shape. The salsa was spicy, the chips were salty, and the stomachs were satisfied. We decided to make our way back to our new apartment.

Arriba!

Arriba!

Instead of going straight there, we decided to make a detour at Hosok Ter (Hero’s Square). We were there the previous night, and being so close, we thought it’d be worth our while to take a short walk around it again. Just as we were about to cross the street to go to the metro home, a bunch of police cars, sirens soaring, come flying by! Is the President of Hungary? Some celebrity? No…it’s the Budapest City Challenge! Ferraris, porsches, and a bunch of other race cars park right on Hero’s Square! Jamie got some pictures with a couple of the drivers, we get some posters, and then we called it a night.

Jamie and the British team!

Jamie and the British team!Free poster with the purchase of a race car!

On Saturday, we slept in. It was the first chance we could, and we took it! Upon waking up, we made our way out and about. To be honest, I don’t remember what we did, but I assure you it was fun. We did meet up with some friends to go bar hopping, which ranged from Karaoke (English AND Hungarian songs), to an outdoor plaza with a bunch of people just chillin’. On Sunday, we were going to check out the City Challenge, but it was an hour outside of the city, so we instead ended up at Szent Istvan’s Basilica.

What makes this Basilica cool and distinct from all the other basilicas in Europe is that this one contains the mummified hand of Szent Istvan himself! On August 20th, Szent Istvan’s Day, the hand is paraded around the city. Too bad we arrived on the 21st! Oh well…after hanging out, we made our way back to our apartment to get ready for our first week of classes! We didn’t know what to expect, but we knew we’d better get used to it fast or it would be a LONG year.

The front of the basilica

The front of the basilica

On top!

On top!

That is totally a mummified hand!

That is totally a mummified hand!

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